一叶参 发表于 2008-12-12 15:27:52

[12/12][绘画]维多利亚贵族服饰[51P]

维多利亚时期（裙撑CRINOLNE时期1850－－1870）<BR><BR>　　十九世纪中层阶级人士越來越多，流行开始受中层人士支配。在法国有高级服装店产生，是一位英国人CHARLES WORTH开的，他也是第一个用假MODEL來展示服装的人。此時期发明了摄影技术，从此可有照片来研究服裝此时服裝材质以羊毛织物为主，丝织物只做衣缘的装饰。<BR><BR>　　这个时期的女性又走向多装饰性，因工业发展及机械化使得华贵的衣料价格下降，新的技术制造出轻的钢条做成轻便的裙撑，而不用穿多层的衬裙。裙下摆变长，拖地有TRAIN，为多层裙LAYER SKIRT。AMELLA BLOOMER认为此种拖地的大裙子既不合卫生又不方便，而提倡裤装，但未成功。 <BR><BR>　　1840－－1870服装发展轨迹 19世紀女性服裝的体态轮廓，在50年代为「半球型」，60年代为「直角三角型」。<BR><BR>　　1825-1850 这个时期两性服裝的潮流到达一种荒谬的定点。男性服装清一色是未经装饰的黑色烟管状服裝；女性则持续使用裙撑架，利用褶皱及蕾丝等把自己过度装饰得像个会走路的婚礼蛋糕。由于缝纫机的发明，还有打版书和系统的散播，这个时期不论男人和女人的服裝都变的更为复杂。虽然男人的衣服外在看來简单 却需要更复杂的剪裁来使服装线条更为贴近身体线条<BR><BR>　　1850年，女性采用Hoop Skirt(或称作Crinoline)取代以往又重又热又大又不卫生的衬裙，使得她们的双脚有更多活动的自由，而她们对于這服装上一点小小的改革感到滿足。这种Hoop Skirt可能会露出女性的双脚，因此她们必须采用The Bloomer Costume內搭的长裤，而且在初期这些裙撑架是以坚固的铁制成的，这种服饰使男性受到惊吓并企图阻止这样的流行继续下去，他们毫不留情的在报纸及公开场合等利用各种方式来嘲笑这种流行趋势。Hoop Skirt的好处使得大多数女性不顾父亲及丈夫的放对，Hoop Skirt的材料也很快地从坚固的铁制成到有弹性的钢丝，这使得裙子可以越來越轻。在1850-1865年间，女性服饰的轮廓变得更大和趋于水平线 在过去所有的线条都是向下拉的。<BR><BR>　　到了1860年，hoop实在是太大了因而它的发展也受到限制，于是hoop的形状逐渐变成圓卵形加上在背后大量拖曳的裙摆。1866年，hoop的size逐渐縮小但仍维持圓卵形，直到1870年渐渐演变为所谓的Tornure或是Bustle。这样的演变使得女性的体型姿势向前倾斜，就像一艘船的船头一样。此时最特別的是，女性的裙撑架，出現「前扁后膨，强调臀部」款式造型的变化。1860年的crinoline如钢般坚挺，从1864年起，用三角形布拼缝起的裙子使得裙宽达到一种良好的状态。<BR><BR>　　1870年，本时期初，女子穿着「臀垫」〈bustle〉以达到「强调臀部突出」的造型。在1875年之后，女性则转而流行「紧身与拖曳裙」款式的造型，并强调腰部以下背后华丽的装饰。<BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_386f854c34cad49d3e00UKXjQD1CzQFM.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_386f854c34cad49d3e00UKXjQD1CzQFM.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_7dd34581661120a85da7LwzYbadKs75m.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_7dd34581661120a85da7LwzYbadKs75m.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_aaa315fbc7f1c19328c2Y8TXAnPJMZfV.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_aaa315fbc7f1c19328c2Y8TXAnPJMZfV.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_0187e64822bf404fcb5e1fHRV8NMXHv5.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_0187e64822bf404fcb5e1fHRV8NMXHv5.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f856fb3e7038123c7b0are7hHlRrfJNW.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f856fb3e7038123c7b0are7hHlRrfJNW.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_34e7f7f17a4ab80f0bc3oOTBVuh8iDtn.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_34e7f7f17a4ab80f0bc3oOTBVuh8iDtn.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_5ff80b8b5847f16f604eHWp8QHuyMMNW.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_5ff80b8b5847f16f604eHWp8QHuyMMNW.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_8e0e8c39a89554727022dJQ7zAY2UNOF.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_8e0e8c39a89554727022dJQ7zAY2UNOF.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a1b533f3c2fb1a60c081jIkLgadZuIEH.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a1b533f3c2fb1a60c081jIkLgadZuIEH.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_44e85f14efb7a6c9ddc5B0TUpVbQzHL0.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_44e85f14efb7a6c9ddc5B0TUpVbQzHL0.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　

[ 本帖最后由 一叶参 于 2008-12-12 15:33 编辑 ]

一叶参 发表于 2008-12-12 15:29:11

<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_10a54a757e1bab7eee46FEzxqK6DwwM1.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_10a54a757e1bab7eee46FEzxqK6DwwM1.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a22d6c6f7255d654d97cDxWF7mDaNkgi.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a22d6c6f7255d654d97cDxWF7mDaNkgi.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_4897304326418ba861c2u24ArqTCO7Kb.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_4897304326418ba861c2u24ArqTCO7Kb.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_d1fd34acf24bf58b9816Cy4YA1DZtT3R.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_d1fd34acf24bf58b9816Cy4YA1DZtT3R.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_59d5f8a178e8ba518505kzrKW2RYz7D2.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_59d5f8a178e8ba518505kzrKW2RYz7D2.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_c5e594b109e3029420efsVuhOj4v6AYd.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_c5e594b109e3029420efsVuhOj4v6AYd.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_63aa5eba2540ae3c6bdfYKuGD8rU60K8.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_63aa5eba2540ae3c6bdfYKuGD8rU60K8.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_8995654c88341c22b604cm5m8xjAaKws.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_8995654c88341c22b604cm5m8xjAaKws.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_c6e59584b9e1e2fec8b1xbEPt1slu6G0.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_c6e59584b9e1e2fec8b1xbEPt1slu6G0.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f26351b3a7fe2284056bW18tLWReA8Hl.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f26351b3a7fe2284056bW18tLWReA8Hl.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　

一叶参 发表于 2008-12-12 15:30:44

<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_49323a8a4e410336c93fk3DHAhnXWWAE.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_49323a8a4e410336c93fk3DHAhnXWWAE.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_23abe9521a2b0f87888faNNxZoJhoIQa.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_23abe9521a2b0f87888faNNxZoJhoIQa.jpg" border=0><BR><BR><IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f4daf9828e0bc7bd45642mCukHYzskXs.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f4daf9828e0bc7bd45642mCukHYzskXs.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a6b1e4d4d40534a618b71jxMgUugj8P5.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a6b1e4d4d40534a618b71jxMgUugj8P5.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_9fe172e083ca81b593b3O7DaQbJbQTtF.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_9fe172e083ca81b593b3O7DaQbJbQTtF.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_dd3d776349c52072dec7t9sPXtAKqkdI.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_dd3d776349c52072dec7t9sPXtAKqkdI.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_bc9e0aa43b8f337e4f80HsRNzVKW7QPW.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_bc9e0aa43b8f337e4f80HsRNzVKW7QPW.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_da0fe814c0312c940859Py9kHMS0kwiJ.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_da0fe814c0312c940859Py9kHMS0kwiJ.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a2d5e500d11530c3070eGH6Udj9zJ7Ny.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_a2d5e500d11530c3070eGH6Udj9zJ7Ny.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_46bb9c79c2576f2c44d3wQwu9bu9DKvW.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_46bb9c79c2576f2c44d3wQwu9bu9DKvW.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>

一叶参 发表于 2008-12-12 15:31:40

<BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_026b1c7deb046a45f311GGIi6vhOMJrf.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_026b1c7deb046a45f311GGIi6vhOMJrf.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f1a1f8b999e869f965b84cwhuv9u9XqR.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f1a1f8b999e869f965b84cwhuv9u9XqR.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_cb88f8f31eaf88eb338bZ8ZO0qyBdcI0.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_cb88f8f31eaf88eb338bZ8ZO0qyBdcI0.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_8c094bdcb4591ba61edaFGgce064leSR.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_8c094bdcb4591ba61edaFGgce064leSR.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_6b7a2adcb66feb280498NTQsYtSg4Z2X.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_6b7a2adcb66feb280498NTQsYtSg4Z2X.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_90421ef98f03eeed29751vH93VmZ5Ul1.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_90421ef98f03eeed29751vH93VmZ5Ul1.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_5aec51c58554c16636f8hj0JFRgyV4df.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_5aec51c58554c16636f8hj0JFRgyV4df.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_92f1b6362860dda29bd9TQZvyJWOsK7U.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_92f1b6362860dda29bd9TQZvyJWOsK7U.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_e64bc08dbb0099789144P4bDngW6o46D.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_e64bc08dbb0099789144P4bDngW6o46D.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f7e8b26b57bf533fc90duZB6IiWHTs6j.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_f7e8b26b57bf533fc90duZB6IiWHTs6j.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　

一叶参 发表于 2008-12-12 15:32:46

<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_ef1033ee1e9eabf60884dKfVAWXhCj9v.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_ef1033ee1e9eabf60884dKfVAWXhCj9v.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_528a57d186edb222e212Rc6YMOrDFeiY.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_528a57d186edb222e212Rc6YMOrDFeiY.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_cee590f697351b9cf765b9W0PLK0cc6y.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_cee590f697351b9cf765b9W0PLK0cc6y.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_ba5126bc9c01d147b693c8heLbtuJ5Hw.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_ba5126bc9c01d147b693c8heLbtuJ5Hw.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_4d7fa20d7ef72cbab926WIol56G9gROD.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_4d7fa20d7ef72cbab926WIol56G9gROD.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_935fdce508384f91d580WjfmWgQMSxhb.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_935fdce508384f91d580WjfmWgQMSxhb.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_240d902d61a95f765ba37QydqNdNpWOV.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_240d902d61a95f765ba37QydqNdNpWOV.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_1e89b743ccbdb3cb27deV2HMpwI8BU0k.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_1e89b743ccbdb3cb27deV2HMpwI8BU0k.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_0a1b89c91c52f27fd4a4ymZDtKSr7P7L.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_0a1b89c91c52f27fd4a4ymZDtKSr7P7L.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>　　<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_eb05f1c309f9bcabc65f4su8XLFIBTFJ.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_eb05f1c309f9bcabc65f4su8XLFIBTFJ.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>

一叶参 发表于 2008-12-12 15:33:07

<IMG onclick="if(this.width>screen.width-461) window.open('http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_1a4484f1c1a397027a6dmMpfAaIvJXRD.jpg');" src="http://bbs.duba.net/attachments/month_0812/20081211_1a4484f1c1a397027a6dmMpfAaIvJXRD.jpg" border=0><BR><BR>

眼泪MM 发表于 2008-12-13 13:22:49

06～～ 从此不怕屁股小了，穿上这些

luckyzy58 发表于 2008-12-13 19:09:37

她们的衣服也很有特色
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